Bow Lake: Where the Bow River Begins

The turquoise headwaters of the Bow River and a historic lodge among the peaks — one of the easiest and loveliest stops on the road.

Bow Lake is one of Banff National Park’s most picture-perfect lakes, on the Icefields Parkway about 37 km north of Lake Louise, at roughly 1,920 metres. We stopped here in the rain on day two of our Winnipeg-to-Banff road trip: got out a thermos of hot coffee and strolled the shore — one of the quietest, most pleasant moments of the day.

The lake is interesting for more than its looks. Bow Lake is effectively the cradle of the Bow River: this is where it begins its long (587 km) journey through Banff, Canmore and Calgary. Its turquoise, like its neighbours’, comes from rock flour — this time off the Bow Glacier. On the north shore stands the historic Num-Ti-Jah Lodge (now the Lodge at Bow Lake): construction was begun in 1937 by the legendary guide and outfitter Jimmy Simpson (1877–1972), and “Num-Ti-Jah” is the Stoney word for pine marten. There’s a lovely detail here that stitches all the local lakes into one story: Simpson learned the trade from the very Bill Peyto that Peyto Lake is named for, and cooked for Tom Wilson, who “discovered” both Lake Louise and Emerald Lake. Above the lake rises Mount Jimmy Simpson, named in turn for him.

What to know. The walk here is easy and suits almost everyone: from the parking lot by the lodge a trail follows the north shore, and you can extend it to Bow Glacier Falls if you like. There are washrooms, and a small café operates in summer. Two practical notes: fishing is currently prohibited at Bow Lake, and the water is icy even in a heatwave (it’s glacier-fed) — though the odd brave soul still swims. The best light, to our eye, is in the evening.

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Read next: nearby Peyto Lake, Lake Louise and the whole Winnipeg-to-Banff road trip.